We try our best to accurately convey the appeal of producers and wines, but sometimes we fall short of where we want to be. One such category is Australian fortified wines, where we know firsthand their superb quality but are unable to convey its appeal. Then a journalist told us how original and eye-opening a previous Village Cellars’ catalogue article we’ve asked Sommelier Sato to write, which sparked the idea to get him to do an article on Australian fortified wines. We hope you’ll enjoy the article and give Australian fortified wines ago.Yoichi Sato, Owner Sommelier MaxivinSommelier Diploma from the International Sommelier Association2005: Best Sommelier in Japan2007: Represented Japan at the 12th World’s Best Sommelier Competition in Greece, 3rd at the Mineral Water Sommelier competition held concurrently2012: 3rd at the 2nd Asia Oceania Best Sommelier Competition2021: Received an “Outstanding Technician (Contemporary Master Craftsman)” award (from the Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare)Fortified wines in Japan is called ‘Shusei Kyouka (enhanced alcohol)’ wine. It sounds a bit like ‘Shuzei Zouka’ or ‘Shisei Kyouka’ (these words combined can mean strengthening the policy to increase alcohol tax), but far more dreamy and romantic!I started with a joke but let’s get on with the basics. One may simplify the fortified wine making to adding some alcohol to the wine, mix it, then Voila! While this idea isn’t necessarily wrong, but it’s more precise than that. There are two types of fortified wines. One is ‘Vin de Liqueur’ which is made by adding alcohol (grape spirits) to the grape juice, and the other is ‘Vin Doux Naturel’ which is made by adding alcohol (also grape spirits) during or after fermentation. Both methods preserve the residual sugar sweetness, stabilize the quality, and introduce a new flavour profile.There are many theories about how fortified wines came to be. The first theory is that it was by mistake, like the ‘birth of Tarte Tatin’. Alcohol was mistakenly added to a cask of wine and turned it out to be delicious. The second theory is that in the days when overseas trade by sailing ships was popular, water and other drinks were loaded in the bottom of the hull to stabilize the ship as the weight of the ballast on the outward voyage. The crew drank the beverages during the voyage, so something else was needed to replace the weight of the cargo. If normal wine was used, it would be damaged the conditions on the ship, and sailors want to drink something a little stronger. But if the alcohol content was too high, they had to worry about fires. So they came up with something in the middle ‒ a sweet fortified wine.There are many theories as to how it came about, but the basic idea is that ‘sweet taste’ continues to be loved through the ages. And now you have some fortified wine trivia up your sleeve, I’d like to introduce the 3 fortified wines we’re tasting today.d’Arenberg’s unique ‘viscosity’ and expressive acidFirst item, Nostalgia Rare Tawny. A wonderfully evocative name, which you’d expect from d’Arenberg, which is known for giving their wines striking and eccentric names. Nostalgic and rare? Just the thought my eyes fill with tears. Among the many wines that genius Chester Osborne works on, this one is especially unique.The colour has a slightly-aged orange hue, and the nose opens with exotic fruit aromas, with baked apples and black fig confit taking center stage. In addition, spices such as cinnamon and nutmeg accentuate the sweetness.On the palate, café, mocha, and bitter chocolate interwine with each other, with a ‘me, me, me’ attention-seeking display. However, what makes it uniquely d’Arenberg is that both the aromas and flavours are overflowing with a characteristic acidity, creating a three-dimensional structure with a great sense of energy rather than sourness. The aromas flow one after the other, and the taste has a unique ‘viscosity’ that keeps moving around the mouth.This wine is aged in small old barrels for a long time, and every two years, Grenache (or Shiraz) wine is added to bring the alcohol level to 21.4%. This ‘thickens’ the wines, imparting a ‘moelleux (softness in French)’ character, a perfect description of this Rare Tawny!#9994d'Arenberg Nostalgia Rare Tawny (375ml) S'NVOrigin: McLaren Vale, South AustraliaVarietals: Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre/MuscatAlc. 21.4％ Residual sugar 206.8g/RRP（before tax）:￥3,650-The calmness and mastery of ChambersWhen I serve this wine, it makes me want to place this bottle in front of guests attentively and explain in a soft baritone voice, “The aroma of roses is locked in this bottle from Mt. Carmel.”Its appearance has a deep red hue. The aromas, which are as calm as the exterior, are sweet and slightly bitter, with hints of ripe red fruit and strawberry candies. On the palate, the sweetness spreads slowly, and the acidity is gentle. In contrast with d’Arenberg’s ‘acid and viscosity that keeps moving around the mouth’, the enlightened calmness describes it. Dried grapes, and mellow sweet spice that feels carefully and finely ground, flows slowly. The flavours of caramel and butter toffee made with brown sugar become more pronounced as the temperature rises. A unique varietal composition of Shiraz, Durif, and Tempranillo, etc., aged for a long time in old barrels.#7262Chambers Rosewood Vineyards Rutherglen Mt.Carmel S'NVOrigin: Rutherglen, Victoria, AustraliaVarietals: Shiraz/Durif/Tempranillo/Grand NoirAlc. 16.9％ Residual sugar 220.6g/LRRP（before tax）：￥3,500-Yarra Yering’s unique ‘last drink of the day’ surpasses expectations“Huh? It’s not sweet!” It’s an astounding first impression. Aged using the same six varietals as Port, so I expected it to drink like a Port. But my expectations were betrayed ‒ in a good way! It’s a wine full of individuality. A deep dark red colour with aromas of red fruits, liquorice and a discreet resinous aroma also push their way into the nose. In the mouth, the expected sweetness does not rush in, wasting the saliva I had ready.Immediately after the bottle is uncorked, the impression is like a Recioto della Valpolicella, a sweet red from the Veneto region of Italy. It is also resolute and refuses to open up. After waiting for about a day and pouring it into a glass, it finally reveals various spices and bitter flavours, and the depth of expression from there on is wonderful. A deserving quality to end an evening for those who are well versed in wine. Unapologetically unique at 21.5% alcohol. Enjoy it at a warmer temperature.＃3586Yarra Yering Portsorts '00Origin: Yarra Valley, Victoria, AustraliaVarietals: Touriga Nacional/Tinto Cao/Tinta Roriz, etc.Alc. 21.5％ Residual sugar 58.2g/LRRP（before tax）：￥12,500-