Village Cellars has supported the J.S.A. Sommelier Scholarship by awarding the Leeuwin Estate The Art of Fine Wine Award since 2019. This scholarship offers young sommeliers the chance to visit wine producers in Western Australia. In March 2025, a seven-producer tour of Western Australia was conducted. Takuma Yamada, the 2024 award recipient, shares his report from the visit.(Photo: Kazuya Maeda, Sales Department)Australia is one of the world’s most dynamic wine-producing countries. In March 2025, I experienced its versatility first-hand during a visit to Western Australia.◆ Australia’s Third-largest Riesling Region: Frankland Estate (Frankland River)About a four-hour drive south from Perth, Frankland River is home to the Frankland Estate vineyards nestled among lush forests on a hillside, like an isolated island. Its slightly inland location and intense sunlight suggest a rich red wine region, but a tasting at Frankland Estate impressed me with the huge potential of its Riesling.For Australian Riesling, the two major wine-producing regions that come to mind are Eden Valley and Clare Valley. These Rieslings are characterized by a reductive touch and bold, robust acidity, reflecting the dynamic diurnal temperature swings that come with winemaking and high altitude.In the third major Riesling region, Frankland River, Frankland Estate’s vineyards are located at an elevation of 280m. Beneath the coffee rock topsoil lies nutrient-rich, water-retentive clay soil, and most of the vineyards are organically cultivated and dry-farmed. This improves the health of the vines and allows for a slightly later harvest, which facilitates a natural balance of acidity and fruitiness.They also aim to minimize TDN, a compound produced by the grape skins known to give petroleum-like character, through vineyard techniques such as training the canopy to block sunlight on the growing grapes.Their flagship wine, Isolation Ridge Riesling, was particularly impressive. It offers aromas of lemon, orange blossom, ginger, and flint, with kerosene nuance. The sustained acidity and smooth texture are impressive, with a suppleness more akin to a German Riesling. Its outstanding flavours suggest long-term aging potential.Helping remove stems from the destemmer!Frankland Estate Isolation Ridge Vineyard Riesling 2023 (Screw Cap)Varietal: Riesling 100%Alc.13.5％Residual Sugar: 6.2g/LRRP incl. tax￥5,500CODE：13009◆ A Diversity of Varietals and Styles: Pierro (Margaret River), L.A.S. Vino (Margaret River) and Vino Volta (Swan Valley)What surprised me throughout this trip was the remarkable diversity of styles. There are various reasons for this, including generational change, climate change, and a focus on Chenin Blanc, which is rare in other regions, each contributing to making Western Australia a very interesting wine-producing region.At Pierro, one of the region’s leading Chardonnay producers alongside Leeuwin Estate, Nic Peterkin, son of founder and general manager Michael Peterkin, oversees the entire winery as Pierro’s general manager. Nic also rents a portion of the winery to produce his own brand, L.A.S. Vino.These wines are truly unique, including a beautifully textured Chardonnay aged in amphora in stark contrast to Pierro’s rich style; a 2025 Pinot Noir Rosé made by infusing grapes with two types of flowers native to the estate; a Grenache partially fermented with whole bunches; and a blend of Portuguese varietals that balances wildness with complexity.While practicing minimal intervention in both viticulture and vinification, there are no off-flavours. The wines exhibit a natural style, with a level of quality made possible by the formal winemaking expertise he has developed throughout his career.Nic PeterkinAt Vino Volta in Swan Valley, we sampled a variety of styles using Chenin Blanc and Grenache. Despite being in Western Australia’s warmest region, the style is light and refreshing, making the wines suitable for a variety of occasions, regardless of whether they are paired with food or not.“Intimations of Immortality,” a Verdelho-based fortified wine made in the style of Madeira, was an excellent digestif with sweetness and complexity.Garth Cliff and Kristen McGann at Vino VoltaVino Volta Intimations of Immortality Liqueur Verdelho (500ml) NV (Glass Stopper)Region: Swan District, Western AustraliaVarietal: VerdelhoAlc.：19.0％Residual Sugar：338.8g/LRRP incl. tax ￥12,100CODE：13255◆ Overwhelming Scale and Coexistence with Nature: Leeuwin Estate (Margaret River)Visiting Leeuwin Estate was a key goal for this trip. I knew they operated on a large property with significant production and popularity in Japan, but seeing the estate in person surpassed my expectations.Surprisingly, the winery and vineyards account for only a small portion of the 650-hectare estate, with the majority surrounded by a lush forest of karri trees endemic to the southwest of Western Australia. Initially, most of the trees were cut down, but 30,000 were replanted to restore the natural environment. The forests and streams, alongside the vineyards, are key to what makes Leeuwin Estate truly unique.I sampled 15 wines from their lineup with Senior Winemaker Tim Lovett, and was deeply impressed not only by the quality of the Chardonnay, but also by the refinement of the Cabernet. Tones of ripe black fruit blended with aromas of eucalyptus, graphite, and cinnamon. Fine tannins and crisp acidity provided a focused and refined palate.The Cabernet is made from the Houghton clone widely used in Western Australia. Because of the strong phenols, Leeuwin strives for gentle extraction through cold maceration.I was overwhelmed throughout my visit by the world-class consistency in both production volume and quality.This visit allowed me to refresh and deepen my image of Western Australian wine. I hope to share this valuable experience with customers and continue communicating the attractions of Western Australia.Tasting with Tim LovettWith Leeuwin Estate founders Denis and Tricia HoganLeeuwin Estate Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 (Screw Cap)Varietal: Cabernet Sauvignon 96% / Malbec 4%Alc.：13.6％RRP incl. tax￥11,000CODE：12755